CHEVAUX DE FRISE



In Janurary, 2002, I built a Chevaux de Frise(Like the one pictured above) for the American Civil War Association to be used in Civil war reenactments and demonstrations.
Definition: Cheval de Frise[pronounced Sheval duh Freece], Plural -Chevaux de Frise[Shevo duh Freece] is French and means; A piece of wood with spikes sticking out, formerly used to hinder the advance of enemy cavalry.(definition from The World Book Dictionary) During the Civil war, many types of barricades were built for defence. They were built and placed in the path of the likely approach of the enemy. Palisades and abatis were also used for defence. To learn more about Palisades and abatisClick Here However this webpage explains Chevaux de frise.
Over 400 years ago, back in 1594, they were first used by the Prince of Orange, during the seige of Groningen, Friesland against the Spaniards. Friesland is a province in the northern part of the present day Netherlands.
The name, Chevaux de frise comes from French, and it literally means Horse of Friesland because the Frisian army did not have any cavalry. So they made up for it by making artificial 'horses'. And these did the same thing as real horses, stopped the enemy horses. The name Chevaux de frise is also given to other obstacles. For example, a type of stone baricade was used during the Iron age to stop chariots and we call them Chevaux de frise. To learn more about stone chevaux de friseClick Here (The Iron age was in 1000-1500 A.D when they started making metal)
Another type of obstacle, the MARINE chevaux de frise was used during the revolutionary war. The Americans placed it in the Hudson river to stop the British fleet even though they were not used to stop cavalry, but rather warships!
During the Civil war, which is considered the first modern war, engineers built Chevaux de frise by cutting down trees and drilling holes through the logs, then placing sharpened lances through them.
The lances are long poles, about 8 feet long and a few inches thick with both ends sharpened. Now think about this, back in 1863, they did not have power drills, like the one you have in your garage. No, in 1863, they used hand drills and hand augers. After that, they chained them together.
They were made when the army was digging in and had time and manpower to build them, because they took alot of time, effort and skill to make.
Chevaux de frise were made with what ever material that was availiable and they used whatever they could find. In a different war they even used bamboo. There are records that show that they made a species of Chevaux de frise in the form of rail road ties inverted. Although most of the chevaux de frise appeared to have been round logs with round lances, they were not always Round, sometimes they were square. Some photographs show what appear to be just jagged pieces of wood, but they are all in the same class-They are Chevaux de frise.
Chevaux de frise were used to prevent a suddend rush of the enemy. They were placed on roads and areas where they could be moved out of the way if needed.
They were often chained together and placed in front of field fortifications, thus stopping the advance of the enemy.
You see, the enemy had to clear the CdF away in order to continue to advance, causing them to be under the enemy's fire that much longer. The chevaux de frise were placed in range of the enemy’s rifles so that they could in part defend the chevaux de frise. The advancing body of troops sent out some picked soldiers in front with hatchets to try to clear away some of the obstacles. Of course chevaux de frise could be destroyed, just like anyother wooden obstacle, by artillery. If a cannon ball hits a Chevaux de frise, who wins? The cannonball shatters the Chevaux de frise into splinters.
You might have read of WOODEN warships from history where there were huge sea-battles between France and England. The ships would come into a position what is called 'Yardarm to yardarm', meaning the ships are side-by-side. And they would fire there cannon right into the other ship, causing what? Thousands of splinters as the solid shot crashes through the sides of the wooden ships.
And so the same thing applies to any wooden obstacle that was made in the Civil War. Both sides had large cannon and morters. I can not say for sure, but when the union was just about to send troops into the field, the union would try to use their artillery to breakup the enemy's wooden obstacles, but I think that they did.

Chevaux de Frise Definitions
Building Chevaux de Frise






Here are quite a few definitions of what a cheval de frise was.

Chevaux-de-frise was a defensive structure situated in front of earthworks. They were logs that measured about 12 feet long and 10 inches thick, drilled through every foot at right angles for sharpened stakes which projected 3 feet. Chevaux-de-frise were most common among the Confederate fortifications.

The main body of the regiment was engaged in manufacturing siege material, particularly chevaux-de-frise to be placed just over the crest of the parapet trench. These chevaux-de-frise were pine logs ten or twelve feet long..., along which at spaces of about a foot, holes were bored through at right angles...The logs were fastened together end to end with chains and then rolled down the slope in front of the parapet to arrest a sudden dash of the enemy, and they made an exceedingly awkward thing to cross, with a line of muskets firing from the crest of the bank."
- Lieutenant Colonel W.W. Blackford, C.S.A

In 1777 a redoubt and fort was erected at Billingsport by troops from Virginia, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, and New Jersey in accordance with plans prepared by the Polish patriot Kosciuszko. Part of a defense system established for the lower river, the purpose of this fort was to build and maintain the chevaux-de-frise on the Delaware to prevent the entrance of the British to Philadelphia. The chevaux-de-frise were made of poles from 30-40 feet in length. On the point of each stick was fastened a long, sharp piece of iron for piercing the bottom of the vessel which passed over it.

Colonists also planted underwater obstacles in the river called "Chevaux-de-Frise". These were long log boxes with projecting, iron-tipped wooden spikes meant to pierce the underside of ships and sink them.

Other obstructions in the form of a strong chevaux-de-frise (sunken crates of stone with heavy spears of timber pointed with iron to receive vessels) were observed in the channel above, with forts near to protect them--Fort Mercer on the New Jersey shore, and Fort Mifflin on Mud Island near the mouth of the Schuylkill.

At this point in the river the revolutionaries built another chevaux-de-frise. A British spy reported that "every frame consists of a floor of Logs 40 foot by 45 foot with sides so high as to hold stones enough to sink it...On the side looking south, there are two upright posts close together and one at each end. Their weight is suited to the depth of the water. They support long standing Beams with Iron.

Horses of Friesland. A beam filled with spikes to keep off horses; so called from its use in the siege of Gron'ingen, Friesland, in 1594. A somewhat similar engine had been used before, but was not called by the same name. In German it is "a Spanish horseman" (ein Spanischer Reiter).

CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE: A barricade on land or in the water, constructed of massive timbers (cribbed, stone filled) with projecting iron tipped pikes.

Also under construction were chevaux-d-frise. Lear described them as large logs pierced with 10-foot sharpened stakes and shaped like a huge 'X'.They will be placed around the battery, he said. They were used to fend off an infantry charge.

CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE: Logs, some 12 feet long and ten inches thick, pierced at 12-inch intervals throughout their length, by holes at right angles. Sharpened stakes about seven feet long, were thrust through the holes. They were used to present an obstacle to cavalry in front of defensive works.

Chevaux-de-frise - Sharp poles arranged to obstruct attacking infantry or cavalry. The poles were placed in holes that were drilled, at regular intervals, in a log about ten feet long and a foot thick. The poles, about two or three feet long, protruded from the log at a right angle. The chevaux-de-frize was used to block gaps or breaches in a line, and to obstruct the enemy's approach to forts or breastworks.

While this is more of a fortification than a weapon, these devices took their toll of life on the battlefield. The Chevaux-de-frise pictured here consisted of 10 to 12 foot logs to which were attached sharpened wooden stakes. These were commonly used in defense of a fortified position, 50 or 100 feet to the front. Designed to be used more as a barrier than an actual defense, much as the barbed wire of the world wars and our concertina of today, their purpose was to hold off or slow down an attacking enemy so the defending infantry could deal with him more effectively. Occasionally these devices claimed the lives of the unlucky or unwary.

CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE: Logs, some 12 feet long and ten inches thick, pierced at 12-inch intervals throughout their length, by holes at right angles. Sharpened stakes about seven feet long, were thrust through the holes. They were used to present an obstacle to cavalry in front of defensive works.

CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE (French for "Friesland horses "; the Dutch Vriesse ruyters, "Frisian horsemen," and German Spanische Reiter, " Spanish horsemen "), a military obstacle, originating apparently in the Dutch War of Independence, and used to close the breach of a fortress, streets. It was formerly' often used in field operations as a defence against cavalry; hence the name, as the Dutch were weak in the mounted arm and had therefore to check the enemy's cavalry by an artificial obstacle. Chevaux-de-frise consist of beams in which are fixed a number of spears, sword-blades, ., with the points projecting outwards on all sides.

The wall itself was shielded by a chevaux-de-frise of sharpened bamboo stakes. (This was in the Philipiens during the moro wars)

To discourage attacks of cavalry large chevaux-de-frise, logs pierced with 10' sharpened stakes and shaped like a giant X will be built and placed around the battery.

Chevaux-De-Frise: Square beams, 6 to 9 feet long, from which pointed stakes project at right angles; used to stop breaches, etc.

cheval-de-frise A special fortification of interlocking sharpened stakes used to stop the momentum of a cavalry charge. (Interesting derivation. It means "Frisians' horse." The Frisians didn't have horses when they fought the Spaniards; they used these contraptions instead.)

cheval de frise (shaval da FREES) - a portable obstacle consisting of a horizontal beam with a series of long metal tipped wooden spikes passing through it and forming the shape of an "X" when viewed from the side; used to stop the cavalry, form road blocks, and close gaps in fortifications

Cheval-(chevaux) de-frise. Obstacles, mostly in field fortifications, consisting of a long wooden shaft from which smaller diameter, metal-shod or sharpened staves project radially; any two of which act as legs.

CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE: Logs, some 12 feet long and ten inches thick, pierced at 12-inch intervals throughout their length, by holes at right angles. Sharpened stakes about seven feet long, were thrust through the holes. They were used to present an obstacle to cavalry in front of defensive works.

CHEVAL DE FRISE The Cheval de Frise (horse of Friesland) was the fore-runner of barbed wire entanglements used in warfare. It was a fortification comprised of timber pierced and traversed with wooden spikes pointed with iron five or six feet long and used for stopping a breach, defending a passage or making entrenchments to stop cavalry. They were first used by the Prince of Orange in the siege of Groningen, Friesland in 1594 from whence the name.

To defend against enemy cavalry, engineers built chevaux de frise and then chained them together. They were heavily used by defenders during sieges. Many were built. They were desirable to protect roads and other places where they could be moved.

They were built and placed in the path of the likely approach of the enemy.

The Prince of Orange was William I (Called the Silent)the Dutchman and his men revolted against Spain, and won. Netherlands is in the middle of Europe next to Germany and France.

Horses from Friesland — Friesland being a province in the north of Holland. Invented in the 17th c. by the Frisians who had no cavalry. French for "Friesland horses "; the Dutch Vriesse ruyters, "Frisian horsemen," and German Spanische Reiter,Spanish horsemen.

Designed to be used more as a barrier than an actual defense, used to stop the cavalry, form road blocks, and close gaps in fortifications. They were used to present an obstacle to cavalry in front of defensive works.

It was formerly' often used in field operations as a defence against cavalry; hence the name, as the Dutch were weak in the mounted arm and had therefore to check the enemy's cavalry by an artificial obstacle.

Chevaux-de-frise - Sharp poles arranged to obstruct attacking infantry or cavalry. The poles were placed in holes that were drilled, at regular intervals, in a log about ten feet long and a foot thick. The poles, about two or three feet long, protruded from the log at a right angle. The chevaux-de-frize was used to block gaps or breaches in a line, and to obstruct the enemy's approach to forts or breastworks.

cheval-de-frise ("she VAHL duh FREEZE ") A special fortification of interlocking sharpened stakes used to stop the momentum of a cavalry charge. (Interesting derivation. It means "Frisians' horse." The Frisians didn't have horses when they fought the Spaniards; they used these contraptions instead.)


Chevaux de frise at Petersburg

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So, you want to build a Chevaux de Frise?

My father, Quarter Master Larry Erickson and I built a few Chevaux de Frise, and so I have written up how we did it.
I did some reserch into the project before we started. After getting information from several other people, we felt ready to take on the task. We spent three hours finding the right trees, and then dragging them to the workshop. The next day we worked on it, we spent about 6 hours working on it, and we finished it that day.

Here is how we did it:
Materials: The spikes are called Lances. If you wish to build your own Chevaux de Frise, and you don't happen to live in a forest, you can buy about fifteen 7 foot presure-treated poles(lances). The lances should be about 2"-2 1/2" in diameter. Also get an 8 foot beam or log of some sort that is 6"-6 1/2" in diameter. You will need a big drill with a long 2 9/16" ship's auger or self-feed drill bit. I decided to go with the natural wood look and use the wood around my place.

My thanks to my dad, Larry Erickson, who did alot of the work, and who made it possible. Thanks to Mike Musante, who told me about this project, and helped me with the research. And also to Joshua Fedelem and Stacy Erickson who also helped out.

I hope that our project will have many years of use. And I think that it will look better as it gets older.

If you want to do a natural wood look, Click here Or if you will be going with materials from the store Click here


View from breastworks of fort Sedgwick.
How would you like to get over that?

Natural way

You will need access to eucalyptus trees,or any other strait tree. 15 small straight trees, green or old about 2 1/2" dia. will work.
1- 8 foot long log that is 6" dia.
1 piece of 1" board for some shims

First I cut down 15 young trees that were about 2 1/2" in diameter. Since I used a 2 9/16" drill bit, I had to make sure that I could slide at least half of the lance through the hole in the beam.
So I marked on each of the 15 lances where the tree was exactly 2 1/2" in diameter(Either by measuring the circumference or drilling a 2 1/2" hole through a scrap piece of ply-wood and putting the tree through it. You are trying to find out where on the young tree it will be too big to fit through the hole in the beam. After you determine where that point is, measure torwards the bigger end of the tree 3 1/2' (half of the length of the lance) and cut the tree off there.
Note: if the lance it smaller then some, and is less then 2 1/2" at it's biggest end, don't worry, it is ok.
Next, measure up from the end of the tree you just cut 7 feet, and cut if off there. Now you have the lances cut at seven feet.
Prepare the lances:
Now that all the lances are the same length, you need to put a point on them.
Measure down either five or six inches and mark it and the rest of the lances. Next hold the lance vertically with the end you just marked pointed down on a stump, or block of wood. Then using a small axe, or the like, chop it down to a point. It should be nicely tapered. Then when that is finished, make sure that any small branches, or knots sticking out of the lance are taken off. You want the lance to be smooth. Now you can move on to...
Prepare the Beam:
I wanted a dry beam, so I went down with an axe and chopped up an old tree. Cut an 8 foot section, you can use a saw or chain saw, but the axe does look better. I got a 6 1/2" dia. log.
We then figured out where to drill the holes. Now, we are going to drill holes in a line on one side only right now. We spaced them 12 inches apart. So we marked the log with a chalk box (line) to keep the holes straight. Then we marked every twelve inches from the end. Now this is the hard part, drilling the holes.
Drilling side one: Prepare your heavy duty drill, then start drilling! Keep the drill strait with the log. Have another person either on your right or left side watch from a different angle to tell you if you are drilling right.
Make sure that when you drill through the log, that the drill does not keep going and wreck itself on the concrete! Or more importantly, wreck the concrete driveway! After you finish drilling the seven holes, you are ready to proceed to the next side, and the hardest part.
Drilling side two: Now, you have to decide what angle you are going to use. Stick a lance through one of the end holes. Now, the angle we used was 90 degrees or a right angle between the tops of the lances. Put one lance into the end of the beam and make the lance horizontal. Now have another person put another lance right next to Both, the beam And the lance sticking through the beam. The person should be holding the lance straight up and down, level. Now fasten it there, maybe putting something under that lance to keep it from falling back down, or maybe chaining it. Do something to keep it at that angle. After you are sure that the angle is 90 degrees, again go to the top of the log with a chalk box (line) and mark it. This time, as you mark every twelve inches, start at six inches, then every twelve inches after that. You will end up with 8 lances on this side. Ok, now that you have finished drilling holes, it is time to see if it will setup! First you stick half of the lances into one side, halfway in, then you need to get your skill saw out and cut some shims, or wedges. As you make these 1" X 3" wedges that tapper off to a very fine edge, make a few extra, some will get destroyed as time goes by. Put the shims on the Bottom of the hole, not the top because you don't want to see these shims. I would recommend that you even stain the shims to make them blend in, or you can just leave them outside and let the weather do it for you!
NOTES: Place the shims on the bottom inside of the beam when setting up. This will make them much less visible, Yes, I know, it is harder, but it is worth it. This is a dangerous barricade, care should be taken to prevent injury, as the points are sharp. As with all tools, eye and ear protection should be worn.

The finished design Specifications are as follows;
Overall length:             8 feet
Overall height:             5 foot 4 inches
Span between lances:3 1/2"  OR 10 inches betweeb lances in a row.
Width of Beam:	      6 1/2 inches
Width of Lances:       2 1/2 inches 
Angle between top lances:  90
Wood:                          Natural Eucalyptus

Easy way

You should also read 'Natural way'(The other link) for more information. You will need to go to the lumberyard and get the following;
16 poles that are seven foot or longer. They should be 2 1/2" in diameter.
1 log that is 8 feet or longer, and it should be about 6" if possible.
1 small piece of 1"X 3" or like, so that you can make some shims.
First, you need fifteen lances, make them all seven feet long. Now that all the lances are the same length, you need to put a point on them. Measure down either five or six inches and mark it, and the rest. Next hold the lance vertically with the end you just marked pointed down on a stump, or block of wood. Then using a small axe, or the like, chop it down to a point. It should be nicely tapered. (Unless they already come with a point on them, in which case, leave the point on!)
Next; Cut an 8 foot section, you can use a saw or chain saw, but the axe does look better. We then figured out where to drill the holes. Now, we are going to drill holes in a line on one side only right now. We spaced them 12 inches apart. So we marked the log with a chalk box (line) to keep the holes straight. Then we marked every twelve inches from the end. Now this is the hard part, drilling the holes. Drilling side one: Prepare your heavy duty drill, then start drilling. Keep the drill strait with the log. Have another person either on your right or left side watch from a different angle to tell you if you are drilling right. Everything needs to be level, keep the drill level. Make sure that when you drill through the log, that the drill does not keep going and wreak itself on the concrete! After you finish drilling the seven holes, you can proceed to the next side, and the hardest part. Drilling side two: Now, you have to decide what angle you are going to use. Stick a lance through one of the end holes. Now, the angle we used was about 87 degrees between the tops of the lances. In other words, we have an X, now take away the bottom half of that X, now you just have a V left. That V represents the V that the two rows of lances make above the beam as you would look down it. Now the measurement between the two points in that V is 87 degrees. NOTE: We used 87 degrees, but we wished that we had made the lances point up more, so we recommend using 84 degrees. Put one lance into the end of the beam and make the lance horizontal. Now have another person put another lance right next to Both, the beam And the lance sticking through the beam. The person should be holding the lance straight up and down, use a level if you want to. Now use a T-bevel, or protractor, or another measuring tool and lift one of the ends of the horizontal lance (that is sticking through the beam) up until the measurment between the verticle lance and the almost horizontal lance (The V) equal 84 degrees. Remember, this is the small angle, the top,(Or bottom) and that the wider abtuse angle (95 degrees) is just to the left (or right). Now fasten it there, maybe putting something under that lance to keep it from falling back down, or maybe chaining it. Do something to keep it at that angle. After you are sure that the angle is 84 degrees, again go to the top of the log with a chalk box (line) and mark it. This time, as you mark every twelve inches, start at six inches, then every twelve inches after that. You will end up with 8 lances on this side since you started at 6". Ok, now that you have finished drilling holes, it is time to see if it will setup! First you stick all the lances into one side, halfway in, then you need to get your skill saw out and cut some shims, or wedges. As you make these 1" X 3" wedges that tapper off to a very fine edge, make a few extra, some will get destroyed as time goes by. Put the shims On the Bottom of the hole, not the top because you don't want to see these shims. I would recommend that you even stain the shims to make them blend in, or you can just leave them outside and let the weather do it for you! NOTES: Place the shims on the bottom inside of the beam when setting up. This will make them much less visible, Yes, I know, it is harder, but it is worth it. This is a dangerous barricade, care should be taken to prevent injury, as the points are sharp. As with all tools, eye and ear protection should be worn.
  The finished design  Specifications are as follows;

Overall length:             8 feet
Overall height:             5 foot 4 inches
Span between points:4 foot 8 inches
Span between lances:3 1/2"  OR 10 inches betweeb lances in a row.
Width of Beam:	      6 inches
Width of Lances:       2 1/2 inches 
Angle between top lances:  90
Wood:		       Presure-treated


The confederates fight behind one of our chevaux de frise.


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